Next Draft (Areas 1, 3, 4, 4.5)


I’ve added areas 3, 4 and 4.5 to the guide and updated area 1. Name changes reflect the names given in the development notes from Mike Adams and from material Clint and Matt have sent over. Given area names because numbers sound crap and existing names, e.g. Broad Hill cover more than one area.

GPS coordinates added at the suggestion of Sid (UKC moderator) and captions added to photos at the suggestion of Orrin.

A few bits left to do in these areas (Hob’s Wall topo needs a new photo, the back face of Gonzo could do with a better photo, could do with more photos of people climbing) but the lines are fairly comprehensive. There are other problems that could be done at Area 1 (slab left of Turry Tor and a crap looking cracked boulder between Reg and Gonzo) but I’m not sure either are worth the effort.

Have spent a lot of time in areas 2 and 7 recently. Will try and get those added over the next couple of weeks. That will then leave only areas 5 and 6 which will be another couple of weeks. Once I have all of these done, everything on UKC will have been covered (bar two unknown problems) and I’ll find some way to make the guide more public.

I plan to start adding the unpublished outlying crags from the development notes (Viaduct, Swannymote, Temple Hill, Poacher’s Corner) after making the guide more public.

If you use the draft please let me know if there are any problems. I sent an earlier and very incorrect version of Hob’s Hole to Evelyn and got her and her mum lost! Hopefully it is clearer now.


AREA 1 DRAFT – Naming, Grading and Claiming


Over the last month or so I have been trying to write a comprehensive guide to the boulering in Cademan woods. This is something I am very psyched for, I’ve bought an ok camera and laptop and have spent the vast majority of my free time either in the woods or compiling the guide.

The motivation for this comes from:

  • An interest in how guides are made
  • Money troubles stopping me from climbing in the Peak 3-4 times a week
  • The discovery of Hidden Wall in a guide Clint e-mailed a couple years ago (an excellent boulder not on UKC or online)
  • Frustration at not being able to find climbs logged on UKC in the guide
  • Frustration at ambiguous descriptions for problems on UKC
  • Massive psych for the Woods


While mapping area 1 I began climbing everything that I could find there. Some of the problems are allued to in the online guide (e.g. the front face of the Cavalry boulder), others were not on UKC or the online guide (Pirate Block, The Warthog). I have given these names and grades for the purposes of the guide and UKC but I’m not claiming, and have no interest in claiming, these routes as first ascents. I am just enjoying making a guide.

I’ve been ignorant to the fact that people may wish to claim some of these problems as first ascents and give them names. I have linked a very rough draft copy of Area 1 to this post. The map is blurry and inacurate; I have a better map in a similar style on my computer but until it is finalised I’m not going to spend time properly scaling it to prevent the blurring. If you are interested, please check the problems and if you want to change the names I will make an effort to do this (easy in the guide, not sure about UKC).

I am currently climbing and cleaning problems in Areas 3, 4 and 4.5. Most of these are on UKC. When I move onto the next areas I will post a topo here before adding climbs on UKC to give people a chance to claim and name climbs. It was mentioned that the UKC climbs Kids on a Slope and Bassline have been climbed before, I did not add these but can ask about changing names and crediting the first ascentionist on UKC.

I would like the guide to mirror UKC though, so one name and one grade.


P.S. – If anyone know the climbs on the boulder below let me know – This is the only thing I have not just stuck a line and name on because it is chalked up. IMG_0166.JPG